Chris Museler’s usual ride to Bermuda is in a very hot boat, but this year, after his first ride opted not to race and the second had equipment problems, he’s trimming sails in what he calls “a speed-limit boat”—the Swan 44 Aura in the St. David’s Lighthouse Division. His navigator is race weather and Gulf Stream guru Frank Bohlen. Here’s Chris’s first report.

Sunday, June 1, 0100. Have you ever started an offshore race with one boat and ended up getting aboard one more before finally starting the race with a third? That's what I did Friday, and as I was taking my second car ride up and down Aquidneck Island toting all my sailing gear, my head was spinning.

I had started aboard Simon Says Oakcliff and after a very personal discussion with the crew, the owner made the tough call to not race—only to start and sail to Block Island and settle down to a BBQ to talk about what would be. Many of the crew were not comfortable with the thought of physical punishment that the Gulf Stream was forecasted to deliver.

They were not alone, before the end of the day more than 30 teams had pulled out, including another boat I hoped to sail in, the sleek 78-foot Bella Pita, whose crew discovered on the way to the start that the electronics wouldn't be able to gather weather information. I was getting nervous. Was this a sign that I shouldn't go?

Then came a third offer: "Can you still make it? We're at the gas dock at the Newport Yachting Center," was the text I received from Schuyler Benson, watch captain on the venerable S&S Swan 44 Aura. Why not? Though I needed to get to Bermuda quickly to report on the boats and finishes for the race website, I was thinking of what would be the most stout craft in the fleet to deal with a Gulf Stream pounding. An old Swan, of course! I hopped aboard, a crew shirt was handed to me. and I was immediately in the crew picture for their send off. WOW! As we headed out, I looked at the firmly attached stainless arch around the wheel's pedestal and it reminded me of the one John Rousmaniere was standing behind, 1970s aviator sunglasses glistening in salt spray, on the back of his shocking ocean racing tale "Fastnet Force 10."

This boat was strong. Schuyler has sailed this race many times, as has his son Grey and the rest of the crew, I felt better. Owner Bill Kardash brought me back to earth when he reminded me of the unusual discussions that had gone on the last 24 hours about starting this race. "Hey, we feel like many of the others. We will start, and if conditions are shaping up poorly, I have no problem turning around."

And who is going to tell us when conditions are going to be crazy? None other than the race's weather and Gulf Stream guru, Frank Bohlen. [Frank Bohlen’s Gulf Stream analysis is posted on the race website.] He poked his head up from below and we both looked at each other as to say, "What are you doing here?" I relaxed.

Right when the warning gun fired, the crew remembered leaving two critical sails at the NYYC dock at Newport.

Off to the Races

Since then, Aura has been ghosting with the fleet of mostly mid-sized cruiser-racers with no superfast boats passing us. Frank, the 6'6" lanky New Englander, has been strapped into the teak paneled navigators station, routing us close to the rhumb line. He told us the dangerous low we were all worried about has been downgraded and will be farther away  . . . maybe.

All Saturday we have ghosted along under asymmetrical kite past the continental shelf, where Frank showed us some fast-moving swirls. "All around here you will find a patchwork quilt of currents, some of it tide, some of it density."

There’s more to look at: a breaching white marlin, an ocean sunfish, and (unfortunately) three Mylar party balloons and a bottle that had some very busy mussels growing on its cap.

That's all for now.  Bill’s been debating whether to serve up his traditional Gulf Stream crossing meal, chicken stew. Frank says we will have a daytime crossing Sunday, so it’s pork chops tonight.  For now, this looks to be my first non-Monday finish in a Bermuda Race. We’re in a crowd of speed-limit drivers, and we’re loving the contact.